Black Sea (out of season)

A week off to relax by walking, out of season, out of usual choices, by feet. Continuing a very long-term project… A late autumn trek from Constanta (Romania) to Varna (Bulgaria), along the wide Black Sea beaches, far from the crowds. In short: sunny sands, desert hotels guarded by stray dogs and cats, notable German cars, small semi-abandoned country villages, immense green wheat fields, and immense wind fields. In my limited point of view, this appears as a changing world, with a thirst of modernity, dragged by Western ways of life, but occasionally tempted by the suggestions of a past that looked to the Soviet Empire.

Nobody around. In this season seagulls have the beach all to themselves!

Nothing to say. Even the Black Sea (like all seas I believe) in the cold season has a particular charm. It inspires you to think, against the grain, out of the box.

It seems that no one in Bulgaria aspire anymore to live in the countryside. Small villages appear semi-abandoned due to migration towards the cities, whether by choice or out of practical necessity. Another factor is migration abroad , with nearly 20% of Bulgarians living outside their country. In any case, looking towards to the hinterland, you can see vaste stretches of cultivated land, with fields recently sown with soft wheat. By the way, cereals are one of the most important economic resource of the country.

When traveling through the Bulgarian countryside during the warmer months , it is common to come across benches along the roadside. These benches offer fresh, seasonal fruits and vegetables, allowing you to pick up what you need to feed yourself during the day and continue your walk or bike ride. But in autumn this is not the case.

Along the road, not far from Kavarna, Bulgaria, I came accross this simple but colorful cemetery, which I truly appreciated. It is a stark contrast with our italian ones, with their grey, stone graves and black-and-white portraits of our ancestors. Something I personally don’t find as appealing (even if it is not necessary it be).

The past can not be forgotten. In Kavarna I had an early morning coffee at the coffee machine in this oil station. Trabant “Trabby” was a very popular and cheap car produced in the DDR since early 1950s until 1990. It was widely sold across Eastern Europe.

The Bulgarian Black Sea coastline during the colder months resembles a deserted vacuum chamber. Five-star hotels and even the more basic campsites are empty, watched over by stray cats and dogs, patiently waiting for someone to care for them.

Albena is a famous seaside resort overlooking the Black Sea of the northern-eastern coast of Bulgaria, just 30 km north of Varna, the so called “Black Sea pearl”.

Kranevo village, Bulgaria Black Sea coastline. I’m looking for the cheap hotel I booked. A boy is repairing the roof. He goes down and calls the receptionist. Finally I have the room. A few hundred meters away I see a four stars hotel, another under construction, a stray dog, an old Lada and as usual , around the corner, wreckage, rubble and luxury German cars.

I plan to arrive in Varna by midday and then visit the Archaeological Museum. As I approach the city, the humble houses give way to luxury hotels and residences overlooking the sea on the high coast. From here, Varna looks impressive—its parks and expansive green spaces are striking. I’m particularly curious to see the gold jewelry that was placed in tombs 5,000 years ago.